Can Lanvin's new creative director's debut release make it gorgeous?

At 5:20 pm on February 27th, French high fashion brand Lanvin completed the brand's debut with the new creative director Bruno Sialelli. In addition to the domestic artists Zhang Yuning and Meng Meizhen's star blessings for this show, the main reason for the show's attention is the brand fans' expectations for Bruno Sialelli.

For the brand, the creative director is no different from the brand's re-creating parents, especially with the fact that in recent years, Celine, Burberry and other classic brands have launched new creative directors. The fate of these brands will always go in the fashion of nearly one year. Hot topics talked about in the world.

Now, Lanvin has also joined the team being talked about.

As the fourth creative director of Lanvin's four-year change, Bruno Sialelli is carrying the daunting task of making Lanvin gorgeous. Although 31-year-old Bruno Sialelli previously served as Loewe's menswear design director, and under the leadership of Nicolas Ghesquière and Alexander Wang, he was the designer of the Balenciaga women's pre-season series and the Acne Studios women's collection, with extensive industry experience. But it is not easy to get Lanvin, who has lost his way, back on track.

Especially before Fosun International took over, in October 2015, Lanvin dismissed former creative director Alber Elbaz and hired female designer Bouchra Jarrar and French designer Olivier Lapidus. Under their leadership, Lanvin completed transformation again and again. But it has not been able to bring the brand's substantial sales back to the right track.

Compared to the previous predecessors, Bruno Sialelli is not too heavyweight.

In the few hours after the big show ended, many people spit out the traces of other brands in this show. For example, the shadow of the Loewe bow saddle bag was faintly revealed from the jacket with a bow on the strap. The opening cloak jackets have similarities to the design of the British leather goods brand Mulberry; even the cut can be seen in the style of the former Celine.

However, in the argument that the original Lanvin seems to be gone forever, it seems that everyone is quite satisfied with the new series of Bruno Sialelli.

The most powerful argument is that Lanvin in the new season broke the boring that the brand brought in the previous seasons. In terms of color, in addition to the brand's customary black tones, Bruno Sialelli adds control over light tones. Knitted vests with lively colors, mysterious purple maxi skirts, green trousers covered in "double L" prints, and different shades of brown mashups break Lanvin's past quiet and understated color system.

In addition to the color change, Bruno Sialelli also spent a lot of thought on the print, which may be Bruno Sialelli's "Loewe sequela". The new collection includes silk shirts with cute elephant prints, small foxes with different poses embroidered on tulle, fairy-tale mermaids, Japanese-style characters and coincident with Gucci ukiyo-e prints. The shame of the same work.

Compared with the 2018 autumn and winter series, the style of women's wear has a lot of "scent". “Floating Sense” can almost sum up the most important visual experience in the second half of the Lanvin show. This season, Lanvin designed a lot of tulle and silky fairy skirts and trousers for young women. The addition of lace hem and the design of the mermaid skirt highlight the girlish temperament.

Men’s wear brought a little medieval knight style. Consistent with the theme of “Mystic Pilgrims”, scarves, asymmetrical stitching, and vintage prints add a touch of romance and literary flair to the new Lanvin without losing mystery.

It is worth noting that in addition to the bucket bag and the rollable handbag, Bruno Sialelli's bag this season also has a large Lanvin bag, which is like a mobile luggage bag carried by the Spring Festival home. The pace of walking on the show with it is a bit embarrassing. But with the silk clothing of the same color, it is still a match.

However, many people think that this big show can see the shadow of many other brands from Bruno Sialelli's first series. Fashion critic Vanessa Friedman later wrote in the New York Times: "(Work) is not as hollow or cynical as it was when it was last restarted, but it is not as elegant as the brand used to be."

Maybe Lanvin needs more time to run with Sialelli. However, from the current evaluation point of view, compared with other brands' polarized remarks, Lanvin has successfully passed the "crisis", and hopes that this time, it can really open a new page.