Wanxi Qingsi, a wig is all hand-hooked

This year, Yongqing wig production technology successfully applied for municipal non-legacy projects, a total of 21 procedures

Hooking and speaking skills, it is necessary to put a few millimeters of a clockwork with a crochet on both sides of the hook on the net cover. This version of the picture is Evening News reporter Ren Guoqiang live picture

Evening News reporter Teng Fuqin reports

In the prosperous Yuyuan Mall (600655, stock bar), there is a brand-name brand store called “Yongqing Wig”. The store displays a row of wigs with different shapes, and the store is a separate hairdressing room. This small shop, founded in the thirty-fourth year of Guangxu Emperor Guangxu (1908), was originally designed in the form of a stereotype. It is a customer-oriented position, a prototype, and a wig. After many years of practice, the master has developed 21 roads. The wig making technique of the process. More than a hundred years have passed, and this set of techniques has been passed down through eight generations and has been preserved in the long river of time. This year, the technology successfully applied for the municipal intangible cultural heritage project. The eighth generation of inheritor Ma Xiwen said frankly that in today's 褚多洋 wig brand market, Yongqing wigs must inherit and break through innovation.

21 procedures for making handmade wigs

The earliest name of Yongqing wig is “褚元兴梳篦店”, which is a small shop on the west front of the Chenghuang Temple. It specializes in combs, wigs, and mirror boxes. The wig sold by Yan Yuanxing is just a fake scorpion of the Qing Dynasty men. The last feudal dynasty in China was heading for decline, and there was no need for the scorpion to exist. Therefore, Yan Yuanxing sold the wigs used by the opera actors and the wealthy people to customize them. At that time, the chef in the store could cut the comb into a suitable hair style according to the customer's head shape, and also customized the hair for the local bald-headed people, leaving no traces.

After the founding of New China, Yuyuan Mall named the original wig store of Yuanyuanxing as “Yongqing wig” with the meaning of “Yongyong Youth”. After years of development, the customers of Evergreen Wig have grown from the earliest opera masters to pathological hair loss patients to more “fashionable families”. This year, Yongqing wig production technology successfully applied for municipal-level non-legacy projects, from cutting materials, whole hair, pound hair, hair discharge, intercepting, washing water, to inserting, curling, baking, bangs pressure pit, high car Wait until the scalp is made, the net cap is made, the combing, the quality inspection, the hair styling, etc., a total of 21 procedures, testing the craftsman's craft.

"Now, the "wig hair" in the store is mostly mechanically sewed, but the wig made of real hair is still crocheted with a small plaque and a small shackle. The latter is more breathable and more realistic." Ma Qingwen, the eighth generation inheritor of Yongqing wig, told reporters.

Customized cotton fabric hood for boys

Ma Xiwen is 47 years old. When she joined Yongqing wig, she was only 28 years old. If it was not the company arrangement after the collapse of the cosmetics counter that she had previously worked on, she would not take the initiative to apply for transfer. “I also felt like a lot of young people at the beginning. I felt that my wigs were dirty. Sometimes I had to face hoes and hoes. I was not willing to be a salesperson. But after trying to do it for a while, I found that I could help. Others, still quite a sense of accomplishment." At that time, the other three salespersons in the store were already in their forties, and Ma Xiwen became the youngest one.

The initial job was simple, just sell the wig to the customer. In 1994, it was the period of wigs. The customers in the store were full of queues, and every day, they were able to sell a headgear every three or four minutes. Ma Xiwen only enthusiastically promoted, took out five or six wigs for customers to try on, the performance is not bad, but she is busy selling, she rarely has time to think about how to meet the special needs of customers, how to make the wig look more fashionable, lifelike.

Two years later, after the fake fever faded, the store sales were no longer so busy, Ma Xiwen began to think about the deeper value of the job. One day, a pair of father and son came to the store. The boy was three or four years old. He lost all his hair because of leukemia. The young father told Ma Xiwen that the child would go to kindergarten immediately. He didn’t want him to be a "heterogeneous" in the eyes of other children. . "The father took care of it again, the child's scalp was tender, don't let the wig's net cover hurt his scalp." Ma Xiwen immediately took out a piece of cotton cloth from the hairdressing room, three to five and two, and made a set in the hair hood. The "isolation layer" makes the father and son happy and return.

Fashion wigs match clothing and face

Ma Xiwen began to learn the techniques related to wigs, including color and material, and gradually accumulated experience: what kind of hairstyle is suitable for what type of person, and how to meet the individual needs of customers. "Some people have a bigger face, so I recommend her hair that is bigger and thrown up. These short hairs can be made into explosive or chrysanthemums by their own combing; some people have smaller face types and children's flowers at that time. Style, Yuxi style are more suitable." Ma Xiwen also reported to class to learn beauty, clothing and other knowledge. In 1999, a fashionable woman in her thirties bought two cheongsams downstairs in the mall. However, she found that her hair style was difficult to match with the cheongsam when she tried it. She tried to look at her mind and she came to Yongqing wig to find a suitable one. "New hairstyle". "This customer came back from abroad to visit relatives, may wear cheongsam to attend different occasions, so I recommended her two hairstyles, long waves highlight the femininity, can be matched when partying, "Yusi style" short hair show spirit, more formal The occasion can highlight the temperament."

Ma Xiwen, who realized that he still has room for improvement, spent three months studying beauty, clothing and other related knowledge: "The human hair style and face shape, makeup and usual dressing are all related. If they don't match, they will It seems unnatural."

In 2000, Ma Xiwen became the eighth generation inheritor of Yongqing wig training. Not only did he have to learn the whole set of crafts, but he also took on more difficult tasks and how to pass on the craft. "At that time, I ran at both the factory and the store. I saw how the masters operated in different processes in the factory. I learned how to squirm and haircut for more than a year."

Technology inheritance faces talent crisis

"Hooking is very skillful. It is necessary to put a few millimeters of a clockwork on the two sides with a crochet hook. It is hooked on the net cover, it can't be hooked, and it can't be uneven. It is very difficult." For Ma Xiwen, the most The difficulty lies in the hooking and haircutting. The former tests patience and care, while the latter requires the accumulation of experience. “The gestures and strengths of trimming human hair and chemical fiber materials are different. How to cut the results at the beginning can't cut out the desired results, all rely on practice.”

In recent years, through the launch of high-end customized products, VIP membership activities, and improved after-sales service and other breakthrough innovations, the annual turnover of Evergreen wig flagship store has climbed steadily, with annual sales exceeding 10 million yuan. Despite the good momentum of development, wig shops still face a talent crisis. Ma Xiwen said that it is not difficult to recruit hair stylists, but the hunter is facing faults. Now there are more than 20 crocheters in each factory in Evergreen wigs. Most of them have passed the confession because of every wig. It takes at least five to seven days, the work is monotonous, and the wages are not high. In the past two years, there have been frequent departures from the hooks, and it is difficult for young blood to be injected. "In fact, we also want to solve this problem, but it is very difficult. Moreover, it takes patience and meticulousness to spoof this work. Most boys can't do it."

The more serious problem is that the bosses of wig production factories are all 50 or 60 years old. Due to the increasing labor and operating costs, the profits are getting thinner. The sons and daughters of the factory owners are not willing to take over. After the boss retired, I really don’t know if they will close."

At the moment, Ma Xiwen's main task is to pass on technology and services. She smiles and has a candidate for the ninth generation of inheritors. She will teach him various skills in a while.